The Ultimate Guide to Oval Cut Diamonds

The Allure of an Oval Diamond

An oval diamond has an elongated round shape that evokes an understated elegance, but with a difference. When faceted in the brilliant style, its fire can rival that of a round brilliant. So, get ready to pick the perfect oval diamond, one that will pull on your heart strings with every loving gaze.Smiling woman displaying her engagement ring while embracing her partner

In this blog, we cover:

  • Anatomy of an Oval Diamond
  • History of the Oval Diamond
  • What to Look for in an Oval Diamond
  • Oval Diamond Engagement Ring Settings

Anatomy of an Oval Diamond

An oval diamond is a fancy shape diamond, often seen as a stretched version of a round brilliant diamond or a rounded cushion shape. Understanding its parts can help you select the perfect stone.

Part Description
Head/End The “tips” of the oval
Shoulder The curved area reaching from the head/end to the belly
Belly The central area where the sides curve out the most

Illustration: Anatomy of an Oval Diamond courtesy of GIA.edu
Oval diamond anatomy diagram labelling the head or end, shoulder and belly

Modern oval diamonds typically have a brilliant faceting style, which includes 57 or 58 facets—similar to a round brilliant. The most common facet arrangement consists of eight bezel facets on the crown and eight main facets on the pavilion.

Illustration: Oval Diamond Facet Arrangement courtesy of GIA.edu
Diagrams showing the crown and pavilion facets of an oval brilliant diamond

Why Choose an Oval Diamond?

  • Larger appearance: An oval diamond has a larger surface area than a round diamond of equal carat weight, making it appear bigger.
  • Flattering shape: The elongated shape can make fingers appear longer and more slender.
  • Durability: Unlike sharp-cornered shapes, an oval diamond is less prone to chipping.

History of the Oval Diamond

The brilliant faceting style was introduced around 1700, with cushion-shaped diamonds being predominant. However, ovals were also available. Early oval diamonds were not categorized as strictly as today but were recognised for their unique elegance.

Oval diamond in an ornate antique-style ring setting

In 1957, the modern oval diamond was refined by the renowned Russian diamond cutter Lazare Kaplan, who perfected its symmetrical proportions and faceting. His work revolutionized the cut, making it one of today’s most popular diamond shapes.


 

What to Look for in an Oval Diamond

When choosing an oval diamond, consider the following factors:

Factor Recommendation
Cut Ratio Ideal length-to-width ratio: 1.3 – 1.5
Symmetry Even curves, no visible distortion
Bowtie Effect Minimal dark shadow in the center
Colour G or higher for a bright appearance
Clarity VS2 or higher for eye-clean beauty

Cut Ratio

Whether you prefer a longer oval diamond or one with a wider belly is purely personal preference. But fitting your preference within the 1.3-1.5 ratio will ensure your diamond will have optimal light refraction capability - that all important sparkle!Oval diamond outlines comparing length-to-width ratios of 1.3, 1.4 and 1.5 

Avoiding the Bowtie Effect

A well-cut oval diamond should have a minimal bowtie effect—a dark shadow in the center caused by light leakage. High-quality stones are cut to reduce this issue.Oval diamond facet diagram highlighting the central bow-tie regionOval diamonds compared with no visible bow-tie and with a visible bow-tie

At NZ Jewellers Auckland we are here to help you find your perfect diamond! When looking for elongated diamonds, such as ovals, we are meticulous in searching for those with no visible bow-ties and table inclusions. You can put your trust in our years of expertise. We will send you through videos and grading reports for diamonds that meet your desired specifications for you to choose from.


Best Oval Cut Engagement Ring Settings and DesignsBride wearing an engagement ring with her hand near her hair

Oval diamonds are incredibly versatile and look stunning in various ring settings. Here are some of the most popular designs:

  • Classic Solitaire Oval Ring Design: Timeless and elegant, showcasing the beauty of the oval diamond, with a plain band or accented with pav'e set diamonds.Hand holding a solitaire engagement ring in a jewellery showroom

  • Halo Settings Oval Diamonds: Whether antique in style or modern the halo ring design will enhance the oval diamond's appearance, making it appear larger.   Hand wearing an oval moissanite engagement ring
  • Three-Stone Oval Diamond Settings: Oval? Round? Pear? Featured accent diamonds can add brilliance and sophistication to an oval diamond ring.Engagement ring presented in an open round ring box
  • Split Shank Oval Diamond Rings: A stylish design, modern or classic, well suited to the oval diamond shape. Hand wearing a solitaire engagement ring while holding flowers
  • Bezel Set Oval Diamond Rings: A sleek metal rim encircles the diamond for extra protection and a modern ring design. Close-up of an oval diamond engagement ring in a bezel setting
  • East-West Oval Diamond Rings: Where the oval diamond is set horizontally for a stylish modern look.Hand wearing a solitaire engagement ring against a floral background

Lab-Grown Oval Diamonds vs Mined Diamonds

When considering an oval diamond for your engagement ring, one of the biggest decisions these days is whether to choose a lab-grown or a mined diamond. Lab-grown diamonds are chemically, physically, and optically identical to natural diamonds, offering the same brilliance and durability. However, they come with key advantages, including a lower price point—typically 30-50% less than mined diamonds of comparable quality—allowing you to purchase a larger or higher-quality stone for the same budget. Additionally, lab-grown diamonds are a more sustainable choice, as they are created using advanced technology without the environmental impact associated with traditional diamond mining. At NZ Jewellers East Auckland, we specialise in both mined and lab-grown diamonds, ensuring you have the best selection to suit your values, style, and budget.

At NZ Jewellers, we can create bespoke engagement ring designs to suit your style and preferences. Whether you want a timeless solitaire or an intricate vintage-inspired ring, we can craft the perfect piece for you. We can source a range of ethically sourced, IGI, GCAL and GIA-certified oval diamonds. Whether you're shopping online or visiting our store at Botany Town Centre, our team is here to help you find the perfect engagement ring.

Browse our collection of diamonds online or book a consultation today!

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